A Latina who doesn't get all giddy about flan? Doesn't exist as far as we know! After all, who could resist such a divine concoction of caramel, vanilla and leche condensada? A few months ago we sent our fearless tasting team on a coast-to-coast search of panaderías, bodegas and fancy restaurants alike. The result? A delectable tour of our favorite flans, from Miami to Los Angeles. One thing: We couldn't possibly have tasted every flancito out there (whose caderas could handle that?), so we're certain we've overlooked some great ones. Let us know what we've missed here. In the meantime, buen provecho!
La Serenata de Garibaldi
A hole-in-the-wall steps away from a street corner where mariachi
musicians gather every day looking for work, this Los Angeles institution's
pan-Mexican menu is excellent. But its most cherished creations are the flans,
which vary in flavor according to season and can range from coconut to vanilla
to one lathered with cajeta. Best by far is the Caramel flan, a brown, pocketed
mass of smokiness, sweetness and sheer bliss. And for only five bucks!
(1842 E. First St., 323/265-2887)
Xiomara Melrose
Xiomara Ardolina is an official member of Los Angeles's culinary court thanks to
the Cuban native's three Nuevo Latino restaurants, two of which bear her name.
Angelenos love everything about the lady--her unique creations, her gorgeous name
and especially her delightful takes on flan. At her latest namesake spot, on trendy
Melrose Avenue, the Tres flancitos allows diners to enjoy the dessert in three
flavors--guayaba, guanábana and mamey--served in bite-sized portions. And the
sampling platter is only $8 to boot! Savor each slowly: The flan's fruity,
luscious essence is as close to the Caribbean as you can find in El Lay.
(6101 W. Melrose Ave., 323/461-0601)
Taléo Mexican Grill
One of the greatest flans in all of Southern California isn't in Los Angeles
but rather in Irvine, the core of wealthy, conservative, Latino-hatin' Orange
County. Those factors all disappear once you enter Taléo, a sleek restaurant
owned and operated by Texas native Nic Villarreal. His $8 flan achieves a sort
of sugar nirvana–a dense, creamy, chilled slab of smooth custard topped with a
delicate layer of caramel that shatters like that of a crème brûlée.
Chase it with a snifter of Corralejo-brand tequila and allow the sugar and alcohol to lull
you into the best food coma of your life. (3309 Michelson Dr., Irvine, 949/553-9002)
--Gustavo Arellano
